Hacking Ogden: adding elastic under the bust

I have been on a serious Ogden making kick. Everyday Layla asks me how many I plan to make that day. Yep, it’s that addicting. But good addicting. It’s a great staple piece for the wardrobe and a great stash buster. I’ve been using so many fabrics I love but didn’t have a purpose for beforehand. 

With second one I made, which I showed you last week, I added elastic under the bust. It makes for a very flattering silhouette, and it’s so easy to add. In fact, if you haven’t hemmed the lining in your already existing Ogdens (or even if you have and would like to unhem the lining), you can add the elastic for this empire shape. 

If you are cutting a new Ogden, and you have a larger cup size, you may find it useful to add a 1/2″ or so to the bottom on the lining piece. I also extended the length of the cami by an inch on the front and back pieces because I have a long torso. 

All you need to do is forego hemming the lining and instead finish the raw edge. 

Assemble the Ogden as instructed. At the very end, turn your Ogden inside out. Press it well, and you may want to pin the lining down to keep it from shifting. 

Sew a line of stitching 5/8″ from the edge of the lining- you’re sewing through the lining and exterior here. Overlap your beginning stitches by about 5 stitches. 

Now sew a second line of stitches 3/8″ below that top line (that’s about 1/4″ from the edge). Leave an opening of about 1.5″ to thread your elastic through. 

 To determine the amount of 1/4″ elastic you will need, measure below your bust around your rib cage then subtract and inch. Use a safety pin to thread the elastic through the open channel. Make sure the end stays out so you can join the ends. Also be sure not to twist the elastic. The 3/8″ channel should keep it from twisting around. 

When you have reached the end, overlap the ends of the elastic by an inch and sew back and forth a few times to secure it. Evenly arrange the gathers, and then sew the opening shut by overlapping the beginning and end stitches by 5 stitches or so. 

I love this simple modification so much! I have made 5 or 6 camps this way and it’s definitely my favorite. 

Note : If you find that it’s more flattering to lower the elastic to the waist, simply extend the length of the lining them proceed the same way. 

If you don’t have the Ogden Cami pattern yet, I cannot recommend it highly enough. It’s a fantastic beginner pattern and it’s such a practical piece. I think you will have a hard time making only one. True Bias doesn’t even know I exist to my knowledge, so know that is all me and my own opinion. I paid for the pattern and truly cannot stop making it. 

This super cute notions fabric is by Yuwa and I got it at Jones & Vandermeer. 

Tomorrow I’ll have a little Ogden showcase to give you an idea of how much this pattern has helped my wardrobe. 

See you then! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask me in the comments. I’ll try my best to help out. 

-Meredith 

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Welcome to Olivia Jane Handcrafted! I'm Meredith and this is my creative journal. Here you'll find loads of inspiration for a handmade wardrobe, home decor, bags, and quilts. I even have plenty of projects and tutorials to get you started or help you along the way. 

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